Kyrgyzstan

Think of towering snowy peaks like something out of a fairy tale, vistas that extend as far as the eye can see with no fences, just massive herds of wandering sheep, cows and horses and non-tarmacked roads and you have Kyrgyzstan.  It is a country of mountains, horses and yurts.

First rule: do not flush toilet paper even if you find a western style toilet.  There were a lot of squats.

Travelling short distances can take hours as road surfaces are so bad.  There is very little traffic and what there is are mainly lorries.  Sadly, there is a growing amount of discarded plastic by the side of the roads.

Life is lived close to animals in a way we in the west have forgotten and it has its’ charms.  Everything gets killed and eaten, but animals have a nicer life until that point; free to wander, forage and live a group life.

Kyrgyz people do not have many shops, very few cars and limited wardrobes, but they look well on it.  The men are fit, tanned and muscular and the women likewise, ageing well with their teeth intact.

Their priority spend is celebrations, of which weddings are only a part, so house maintenance is not a priority.  There are strict rules about giving more than you receive so huge social pressure in this way.  Because of this, young girls are sometimes kidnapped with the collusion of the son’s parents.  This avoids the expense of weddings, but is hugely traumatic for the young women.

Many of the women in the homestays over 50 had been kidnapped.  When asked, very few had fallen in love with their forced husbands, but had learnt to live without love.  They set out wonderful spreads for us to eat; delicious home-made soups, mouth-watering jams and honey and the best trout I have ever eaten.  Sleeping in a yurt was warm and toasty, but you have to go outside for the bathroom.

Livestock has value and country families tend to support family members in the towns rather than vice versa.

Kyrgyzstan is still a developing country economically.  They have vast mineral reserves, but post the soviet era, not the technological understanding to develop them without foreign aid.

A big coup for the country had been hosting the World Nomad Games.  I enjoyed the eagle hunting demonstration where there was an obvious bond between bird and master.  He said he rescued them as chicks, trained them and returned them to the wild after 10-15 years as they live until 60.

Hats off to Turkish airlines for no queues and super efficiency out bound.  Their food is poor.  Istanbul airport needs to be seen to be believed.

Visit Kyrgyzstan before all the tourists get there.  Being the only guests in a deserted old soviet summer camp was an experience, though we came too early for water in any swimming pools or most fountains.  This starts in May.